REPRESENTASI BUDAYA DALAM REKAAN BENTUK BUSANA PERKAHWINAN MASYARAKAT BISAYA DI BEAUFORT, SABAH

THE REPRESENTATION OF CULTURE IN THE DESIGN OF WEDDING COSTUME FOR BISAYA COMMUNITY IN BEAUFORT, SABAH

Abstract

Busana tradisional etnik di Sabah adalah representasi daripada kerencaman fesyen, bentuk dan ragam hias yang menampilkan identiti dan nilai budaya. Pengaruh asimilasi budaya dan fenomena kehidupan moden yang sentiasa berubah secara tidak langsung mempengaruhi penampilan berpakaian daripada tradisional kepada kontemporari sifatnya. Pada masa kini, busana tradisional lazimnya dapat dilihat dalam majlis perkahwinan, persembahan tarian dan upacara ritual. Identiti busana perkahwinan masyarakat Bisaya di Sabah dikenal pasti melalui penggunaan istilah, bentuk dan ragam hias mengikut citra dan dogma budaya. Kajian busana ini ditumpukan khusus di perkampungan masyarakat Bisaya di Beaufort, Sabah. Data-data kajian membantu pengkaji untuk mendokumentasi dan menganalisis elemen bentuk dan ragam hias yang menitipkan representasi identiti dan budaya dalam etnik berkenaan. Makna tentang subjek, bentuk dan ragam hias selanjutnya diperoleh melalui bentuk simbol sebagai asas penghayatan seni melalui kaedah pemerhatian, temu bual dan rakaman audio visual di lapangan. Kajian ini mendapati elemen bentuk dan ragam hias busana perkahwinan adalah gambaran artistik melalui representasi budaya, adat istiadat dan alam sekeliling. Justeru, bentuk dan ragam hias busana perkahwinan masyarakat Bisaya di Sabah dapat dikaitkan dengan kehidupan tipikal dan warisan budaya yang diwarisi semenjak turun-temurun.

Traditional costumes of ethnics in Sabah were representing the variety of fashion, form and ornament design which reflect the identity and cultural values. The influence of cultural assimilation and the modern life phenomenon that constantly changing from time to time indirectly affecting the dressed appearance from traditional to contemporary fashion. Nowadays, traditional costume still can be seen in a wedding ceremony, dance performance and ritual ceremony. The Bisaya’s wedding costume identity in Sabah can be identified by its terms of the costume and the parts, the form and also the design based on the cultural imagery and beliefs. The research location of the costume is focusing on the settlement of the Bisaya community. The research data assist the researcher to do the documentations and analysis of the form and design elements which representing the identity and cultural aspects of Bisaya. The interpretation of the subject, form and design were obtained by the symbols as the basis of art appreciation through observation, interview and audio visual recording at the research location. This research found that the form and design elements of wedding costume are describing the artistic through culture, custom and tradition, and the environments representation. Thus, form and design of the Bisaya’s traditional wedding costume are strongly related to the typical life and cultural heritage in the community.